Rock Realty Blog

Without question, adding a deck to your home is a significant investment.  You’re not just buying a lawn ornament for your yard here!  So you had better make sure that you maintain it.  I don’t know how many showings I have been to where the home has a beautiful big deck, and it is falling apart due to lack of care.  Following the steps in the article below will help ensure that your deck is looking beautiful for years to come!

Regards,
Michael Collins – Broker

Care and Maintenance of Your Deck

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Dave Toht
Published: November 30, 2009

Annual deck maintenance will forestall major repairs, protect your investment, and boost your enjoyment of your deck.

Because decks are exposed to the harshest elements, they require annual maintenance. Most decks should be cleaned and sealed every year to protect wood components; even decks made of composite or vinyl decking should be washed annually. Also, every deck should be checked regularly for signs of rot and to ensure structural integrity.

Because a deck is a particularly good investment-returning more than 80% of its original cost, according to Remodeling magazine’s annual Cost vs. Value Survey-it’s a good idea to establish a routine of upkeep that’ll protect your deck and prevent expensive repairs. Here’s a simple maintenance schedule to help keep your deck safe, sound, and looking great.

Late spring: Wash the deck

Aside from general dinginess, one of the sure signs a deck needs washing is a film of mold and grunge. Left unchecked, mold and dirt and can trap moisture and cause rot.

Begin cleaning your deck by removing debris from between deck boards using a putty knife. (For a makeshift extension that’s a real knee-saver, try pushing the handle of your putty knife into a length of 1¼-inch PVC pipe. Some putty knives squeeze right in.)

Or, buy a pole-type groove and crevice cleaner (http://www.brookstone.com/groove-and-crevice-cleaner.html). Pay special attention to the areas where deck boards cross the joists-the structural members underneath the decking. Thoroughly sweep the deck.

For a wood deck, use a standard deck cleaner–about $20 for 250 sq. ft. coverage. Or, make your own with a half bleach, half water solution. Choose a cloudy day when the decking is cool and the sun won’t evaporate the cleaner. Protect all shrubs and plantings with plastic sheeting. Apply the cleaner according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Once the decking is cleaned, tackle the railing. Working from the bottom up, apply the cleaner, scrub, and then rinse. Working from the top down splatters the cleaning solution onto dry wood where it can double-bleach the surface, leaving marks that don’t go away when the lower area is washed. Working from the bottom up means you’ll be splattering onto a wet surface where the cleaner is diluted, leaving no marks.

For composite decks, use a cleaner specifically formulated for use on composite material. Scrub with a soft brush. Do not use a pressure washer-it can permanently damage the decking and will void any warranty. Remove rust and leaf stains with a deck brightener containing oxalic acid. Attack grease and oil stains with a commercial degreaser and detergents. Mold and mildew can be kept under control with the use of a deck wash solution twice a year.

For vinyl (cellular PVC) decking-the closest thing to a maintenance-free material-you’ll only need to use warm water and a mild soap to remove mold, mildew, and dirt. Scrub in a circular motion using a stiff broom, then rinse thoroughly.

Late spring: Seal the deck

The finish on your deck may be so woebegone that it’s obvious it needs resealing, but if you have doubts, try the water test. Splash some water onto the deck. If it beads up, all’s well. If it soaks in, it’s time to wash and reseal the deck.

Wash the deck as described above and allow it to dry for 48 hours before sealing. Use a pole sander equipped with 80-grit paper to remove any furriness caused by washing.

Sealers and stains are available at home improvement centers for about $30/gallon-enough to cover 250 sq. ft. of decking. Your finish options include:

·Clear sealer that lets the wood’s natural grain and color show through

·Toner that adds a bit of color but fully reveals the grain and provides some protection against sunlight (ultraviolet or UV light)

·Semi-transparent stain that tints the wood, but lets some grain show

          •Solid stain and opaque color that seals weathering damage and completely covers the grain

Expect to recoat clear sealers and toners annually. Recoat stain finishes as needed (every other year is a good routine), using the same or a slightly darker color. Be sure to wear gloves, a safety mask, and eye protection when applying stain and sealers. Use a roller to apply the sealer to the decking, covering three or four boards at a time. Use brushes and small rollers for railings, planters, and benches.

Some composite decking can be stained to restore its color. Be sure the product is intended for composites. Don’t expect the same density of color that you would achieve with wood. Deck sealants aren’t required or recommended.

Midsummer: Inspect and repair your deck

When the weather is warm and dry, it’s a good time to give your deck’s structure a close inspection. Pay particular attention to any areas within 6 inches of the ground or close to sources of water, such as downspouts and planters.

Look for signs of rot by probing structural members with a flat-blade screwdriver. Begin by checking stairs, especially where the stringers (the saw-tooth notched pieces that support the steps) meet the ground. Also check each perimeter post. If you can push the screwdriver a quarter-inch or more into a suspect area, you probably have rot.

Areas of rot that are no bigger than a silver dollar can be removed with a chisel and the hole can be treated with wood preservative. Larger areas may require the structural member to be replaced. Consult a professional carpenter or builder for an estimate for repairs.

If the underside of your deck is accessible, use a flashlight to inspect joists, posts, and beams. Pay special attention to the ledger-that all-important piece of framing that attaches the deck to the house. An estimated 90% of collapsed decks resulted from the failure of the ledger. However, not all decks have ledgers. Some are free-standing-a beam and posts located within a few feet of the house indicate a free-standing deck system.

The ledger should be attached with lag screws, not just nails. The flashing-the metal cap that covers the top of the ledger and prevents moisture from getting behind the siding-should be free of rust and holes. Check all the hardware underneath, especially joist hangers, and replace any that are seriously rusted. Probe for signs of rot on the posts and joists. If anything looks doubtful, call in a pro to provide an estimate for any needed repairs.

If a framing member can’t be easily removed and replaced, reinforce it. For example, if a joist shows areas of rot, you can add a splint of comparable pressure-treated lumber along side it, attaching the splint with two or three 3-inch deck screws every 12 inches. Then chisel away the rotten area and paint the raw wood with preservative.

Topside, look for cracked or rotten decking boards. Not all cracks are a structural threat, but they’ll get worse with time. If you find damage, replace the piece. Areas of cupping can be sanded down.

Give the railing a good shake to be sure posts are not loose or damaged-loose connections may be remedied by drilling pilot holes and adding galvanized lag screws. Look for cracks that, over time, may have developed around fasteners such as nails or screws. To remedy, remove the fastener and seal the crack with an exterior-grade adhesive. Then, drill a new pilot hole and add a new galvanized deck screw.

Early fall: Preventive measures

If the decking was nailed, you’ll likely find some nail heads popping out. A short-term solution is simply to pound them back in using a hammer and a thick nail set. For a longer lasting solution, pull out each protruding nail and drive in a deck screw slightly longer than the nail. (When pulling out the nail with a hammer or pry bar, use a scrap of wood as a fulcrum for greater leverage and to avoid damaging the deck.) If a nail only slightly protrudes, you may do more harm than good trying to pull it out. Pound it home.

To slow mold, moss, and rot, keep nearby bushes and trees cut back at least 12 inches from the deck. Don’t let leaves and other debris pile up in corners. Move planters, chairs, and tables occasionally to avoid discoloring the decking. Keep nearby gutters and downspouts in good repair.

Dave Toht has written or edited more than 60 books on home repair and remodeling, including titles for Better Homes & Gardens, The Home Depot, Lowe’s, Reader’s Digest, and Sunset. A former contractor, Dave was editor of Remodeling Ideas magazine and continues to contribute to numerous how-to publications. He just added a composite deck to the front of his house.

Rock Realty
Rock Solid Real Estate Strategies
PO Box 2444
Janesville, WI 53547-2444
c: 608.921.8536
f: 877.774.7625
Mike@RockRealtyWI.com
http://www.rockrealtywi.com/

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This is the 4th part of a 5 part series.  If you are going to build a deck, why not do it right?  Add those extra items that are going to make it special.  The article below outlines a few ideas.  Some are structural, while others are a bit more decorative, like adding planters.  Enjoy!

Regards,
Michael Collins – Broker – Rock Realty

Smart Upgrades for Decks

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Dave Toht
Published: November 25, 2009 

A few cost-effective add-ons can give a modest deck an edge and deliver a handsome payback should you sell your house.

A deck is one of the most cost-effective of all home improvement projects. In fact, according to Remodeling magazine’s 2009 Remodeling Cost vs. Value Report, a wood deck project returns an average of nearly 82% of the investment cost-the highest value in the survey.

You can ensure you’re getting the most from this smart investment with low-cost add-ons and special features that increase your deck’s appeal, and that will make your deck one of your home’s most enjoyable living spaces.

Hidden fasteners for decking

For years now, deck screws have been the fastener of choice. (Nails, prone to popping out over time, are old news.) Deck screws come in a useful range of colors, won’t corrode, and hold exceptionally well. However, even when installed carefully, they cover the deck with rows of little pockmarks-tiny depressions that may have splintered edges and trap dirt.

Enter the hidden fastener. This clever innovation holds deck planks down while leaving the surface looking sleek and minimalist. There are scores of hidden fasteners on the market, each of a slightly different design. One category fastens with a screw to the framing and grips the side of each plank with barbs. Another fits into a groove in the side of the plank (some composite planks come with this groove) before being fastened to the joist. Yet another type fastens from underneath the deck, firmly snugging the decking onto the joists.

Hidden fasteners are labor intensive to install, which adds a premium of about $4 per square foot compared with the cost of an installation using deck screws. However, many deck owners find the investment worthwhile, especially if they have selected composite, vinyl, or premium wood decking and want to show off these materials to best advantage.

Adding style with planters

Planters give a deck character. The various shapes and sizes of planters add texture and color. Built-in versions, often made of the same material as the decking, can be positioned to separate seating areas from cooking areas. When planted with tall plants, such as ornamental grasses, they can act as living privacy screens.

Wood planters typically are lined with galvanized sheet metal, plastic containers, or are built to conceal standard pots that are easily removed for cleaning or planting. Planters made of pressure-treated wood sometimes forego the liner altogether.

With all built-ins, some means of drainage is necessary, which may mean you’ll have to bore holes in the bottom of the container. Because excess water will drain from the bottom of your planter, you’ll need to be mindful of where you position the planter. If you hire a pro to custom build your deck planters, assume a cost of $150-$250 labor and materials for each lineal foot of a 2-foot deep and 2-foot high built-in planter.

Built-ins aren’t your only option. Home centers offer a wide variety of planters available at prices from $10 to $200. Ceramic or cement pots can be a decorative feature, running $50 and up for a 2-foot tall container. Hanging planters (about $25 each) are a great addition to a pergola or trellis. Planters that attach to the railing ($70 for a 40-inch-long terracotta planter with metal holder) all but disappear when filled with plants.

Cable railings

Railings are typically required on any deck when the decking surface is more than 2 feet above ground. Railings are the most visible part of the deck from ground level and offer a great opportunity to echo the colors and architectural details of your house. However, if you are lucky enough to a have a scenic vista (or just an awfully nice yard) you won’t want the railing in the way.

One solution is a cable railing–thin stainless steel cables strung tautly between wood or metal posts. This alternative looks great, preserves the view and, at a cost of about $70 per lineal foot for a pro installation, is about $1,200 more expensive than a standard wood railing for a 16×20-foot deck. To further spare the budget, consider using cable only where the view is important and use wood elsewhere. Or, if you are handy, do it yourself (http://www.atlantisrail.com/cable-railing-how-to) for a materials cost of about $25 a lineal foot.

Taming the sun with shade sails

Overhead structures like wood pergolas and trellises help shield a deck from the sun, adding a pleasantly dappled shade pattern. However, they can be costly to install and challenging to maintain over the years.

Shade sails are a cool, eye-catching alternative. Made of UV-resistant polyethylene knit fabric, sails are triangular, square, and rectangular, and come in a variety of colors. They produce a muted, diffuse light, cutting the glare of full sunlight while still permitting light into windows adjacent to the deck. Shade is not all the sails offer. Many homeowners consider shade sails a form of aerial sculpture and delight in watching them rise and fall gently in the evening breeze.

Shade sails for a 16 x 20-foot deck would cost about $5,500 when professionally installed. (Expect to pay at least 30% more for a custom-built pergola of comparable size.) If you have a smaller installation in mind, you can buy a 12-foot triangular shade at your home center for as little as $200. However, bear in mind that a sail can exert a mighty force on a windy day and must be attached to the framing of the house or to steel or wooden poles set in concrete. A professional installation is recommended.

Dave Toht has written or edited more than 60 books on home repair and remodeling, including titles for The Home Depot, Lowe’s, Better Homes & Gardens, Sunset, and Reader’s Digest. A former contractor, Dave was editor of Remodeling Ideas magazine and continues to contribute to numerous how-to publications. He has built-and remodeled-several decks.

Rock Realty
Rock Solid Real Estate Strategies
PO Box 2444
Janesville, WI 53547-2444
c: 608.921.8536
f: 877.774.7625
Mike@RockRealtyWI.com
http://www.rockrealtywi.com/

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Well, with the other articles from this series you’ve learned what kind of investment return you can get on decking.  You also have an idea of where you want to put your deck and what size it should be.  It’s time to get to the details now! …. DECKING MATERIAL.

Regards,
Michael Collins

Smart Options: Decking

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Dave Toht
Published: February 11, 2010

When choosing decking materials, factor in the savings gained by low maintenance and longevity, even if the initial cost is higher.

If you’re planning a new deck or upgrading an old one, the decking material is the most important decision you’ll make. Not too long ago, redwood and cedar were just about the only options. Synthetics, such as composite and PVC decking, and tropical hardwoods, such as ipe and mahogany, offer ease of maintenance and longevity that put the traditional favorites in the shade.

These new contenders are pricier initially, but don’t have the annual maintenance costs of softwood decks. In some cases, the overall cost (initial costs plus annual maintenance) of a wood deck can exceed those of a composite or PVC deck after only a few years.

For example, the cost of cedar decking is approximately $1,700 for a 16×20-foot deck. The same deck covered with composite decking would cost $3,200-a hefty $1,500 more.

However, to keep the cedar looking good, it should be cleaned and resealed every year, at a cost of $90 to $100 if you do the job yourself. Add your valuable time to the out-of-pocket expense, and the price gap between wood and maintenance-free synthetic decking grows smaller with each passing year.

Pressure-treated wood

Made of fir permeated with anti-rot and insecticide agents, pressure-treated decking is a low-cost favorite. The anti-rot treatment once included arsenic, but since 2004 relies on less poisonous agents, such as copper, which poses a health hazard only if burned. The basic tan or brown color of pressure-treated decking can be enhanced with stain. Pressure-treated lumber can last for decades, but requires refinishing with a clear sealer or stain every other year.

Cost: About $2.35 per sq. ft. for material only, $3.80 per sq. ft. installed.

Cedar

The natural beauty of real wood is unmatched. In addition, this perennial decking favorite is inexpensive and easy to work with-a good choice for the do-it-yourselfer. Buy the darker-colored heartwood-anything else is sapwood and can rot within a few years. Look for “heartwood common,” which has more heartwood than the cheaper “construction common.” Expect annual refinishing and a life of 15 to 20 years.

Cost: About $3.75 per sq. ft. for material only, $5.35 installed.

Redwood

Once the very last word in decking, redwood is expensive and now available only on the West Coast. It’s lightweight, strong, and easy to work with. Select only high-grade decking lumber with little of the cream-colored sapwood, which can deteriorate rapidly when exposed to the elements. The darker-colored heartwood is naturally rot-resistant. With regular maintenance, redwood will last 15 to 20 years.

Cost: About $7.75 per sq. ft. for material only, $9 installed.

Vinyl

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) decking is the new kid on the block and rapidly gaining favor as a material that is as close to maintenance-free as decking will ever be. PVC has no wood content. Premium varieties have a cellular core wrapped with an exterior layer of solid PVC and come with a 25-year warranty. Color options include white, gray, browns, and tans.

Cost: About $5.95 per sq. ft. for material only, $9.60 installed.

Composite

Made of wood fiber combined with recycled polyethylene, composite decking is a good-looking, low-maintenance material. Composites come in a broad range of colors and textures that closely approximate real wood. It also offers design versatility: Pros have apparatus for heating planks so they can be bent to make eye-catching in-laid designs.

Premium varieties come with a 25-year warranty. Although maintenance is low, the wood content can host mold if not cleaned with a deck wash every three to four years.

Cost: About $6.60 per sq. ft. for material only, $9.90 installed.

Ipe

A popular South American hardwood, ipe is beautiful, naturally resistant to rot, and durable. It’s also extremely hard, making installation labor-intensive. To maintain its rich appearance, ipe must be sealed every year. It can last 25 years or more.

Because it’s imported, its price can fluctuate. Reliable lumber suppliers should offer assurance that these woods are seeded or naturally renewed. To confirm that the supplier engages in sustainable practices, check in with the Forest Stewardship Council (http://www.fsc.org).

Cost: About $12 per sq. ft. for material only, $22 installed.

Fastener costs

Deck screws are the cheapest option, and are reflected in the installation prices above. Although non-corroding, strong, and easy to install, they leave pockmarks where water and debris can gather.

Clip-style hidden fasteners eliminate this problem, but add $2 to $3 per sq. ft. to the cost of professional installation. Saltwater conditions are tough on fasteners. Some builders err on the side of caution by using stainless-steel screws covered with a plug, a method that costs about $5 per sq. ft.

The cost of maintenance

Wood decking of any type requires annual refinishing to hold its original luster. If you do it yourself, plan on paying about $13 per 100 square feet for deck cleaner, $15 for sealer. If you’ve skipped a season, add $10 per 100 square feet for brightener.

In tough climates or when maintenance has been long deferred, a wood deck will need to be washed, stripped, sanded, and resealed, a process that can cost $2.50 per sq. ft. if you hire it out. Do that twice on a cedar deck and you would have been better off buying synthetic decking that needs only an occasional washing and has a life expectancy of 25 years.

New on the market

The popularity of decking projects has led to new products appearing on the market. Although yet to stand the test of time, these varieties may be worth considering:

          •Aluminum decking comes coated with polyurea (http://www.versadeck.com/products/residential_decking.php) to eliminate the “ping” sound of metal, aid traction, and keep the material cool.

          •Wood decking infused with glass (http://www.timbersilwood.com/) (via silica infusion and microwaving) offers greater strength and low maintenance.

          •Thermally cured wood decking gets a non-toxic heating and sealing treatment (http://www.purewoodproducts.com/Default.aspx) that makes it resistant to insects, fungus, and mold.

Dave Toht has written or edited more than 60 books on home repair and remodeling, including titles for The Home Depot, Lowe’s, Better Homes & Gardens, Sunset, and Reader’s Digest. A former contractor, Dave was editor of Remodeling Ideas magazine and continues to contribute to numerous how-to publications. He recently added a composite deck to his Olympia, Wash., home.

 Rock Realty
Rock Solid Real Estate Strategies
PO Box 2444
Janesville, WI 53547-2444
c: 608.921.8536
f: 877.774.7625
Mike@RockRealtyWI.com
http://www.rockrealtywi.com/

Follow us:
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www.facebook.com/RockRealtyMike

I’ve always been a fan of decks.  There’s nothing better than sitting on your deck with the warm summer sun beating down on you.  Don’t forget your ‘coozie’ to keep your beer cold in the heat!  Did you know that a deck can increase the value of your home? 

Regards,
Michael Collins – Broker – Rock Realty

Deck Addition: Return on Investment

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: John Riha
Published: December 15, 2009

A high return on investment makes a deck addition a worthwhile home improvement project.

Adding a deck to your home is one of the most worthwhile of all home improvement projects. In fact, according to Remodeling Magazine’s annual Cost vs. Value survey, a wood deck addition project returns on average more than 80% of the original investment-one of the highest values in the survey.

One of the reasons that a deck is such a good investment is because it increases living area at a minimal cost per square foot. The national average for new construction costs of a two-story, 2,000 sq. ft. home is about $90 per sq. ft, according to the National Association of Home Builders, However, the construction costs for a wood deck are less than $35 per sq. ft.

The return on your deck investment will vary according to the region in which you live. In the Pacific West, where construction costs are generally higher than other parts of the country, decks are more expensive to build. However, the return on investment is also higher than other regions. Part of the reason can be attributed to the fact that in many areas of the temperate Pacific West, the outdoor living season is virtually year-round, making a deck a solid investment.

National average cost, 16×20 ft. deck, pressure-treated wood decking:

Job Cost: $10,634

Resale Value: $8,573

Cost recoup: 80.6%

National average cost, 16×20 ft. deck, composite decking:

Job Cost: $15,373

 Resale Value: $10,904

Cost recoup: 70.9%

Regional info:

New England (http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/division/new-england.aspx)

 Middle Atlantic (http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/division/middle-atlantic.aspx)

 South Atlantic (http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/division/south-atlantic.aspx)

 East South Central (http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/division/south-atlantic.aspx)

 West South Central (http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/division/west-south-central.aspx)

 East North Central (http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/division/east-north-central.aspx)

 West North Central (http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/division/west-north-central.aspx)

 Mountain (http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/division/mountain.aspx)

 Pacific (http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/division/pacific.aspx)
Rock Realty
Rock Solid Real Estate Strategies
PO Box 2444
Janesville, WI 53547-2444
c: 608.921.8536
f: 877.774.7625
Mike@RockRealtyWI.com
http://www.rockrealtywi.com/

Follow us:
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www.facebook.com/RockRealtyMike